Cameras for Cyclists
Front and rear cameras designed for cyclists — built to record your ride, capture close passes and provide clear video evidence when you need it.
Bike Cameras for Cyclists
A bike camera will not stop a driver passing too close. What it does is give you a record clear enough to do something about it — and with cyclists now submitting record numbers of close pass videos to UK police forces every year, that record increasingly leads somewhere.
Our cameras are built around the two things that actually matter on the road: enough battery to cover a full day’s riding, and footage clear enough to read a registration plate. Up to 7 hours of recording at 1080p, IPX66 weatherproofing built for British roads, and mounts that fit in seconds.
Front camera, rear camera, or both?
Both gives you complete coverage, and it is what we would recommend if the budget stretches. If you can only run one, there is a strong argument for the rear.
A close pass happens behind you. A rear-facing camera shows exactly how much room a driver left, and it captures vehicles in hit-and-run situations where you never saw what hit you. Around a quarter of fatal cyclist collisions involve a vehicle striking the bike from behind, which is precisely the incident you cannot witness yourself.
A front camera earns its place at junctions — vehicles pulling out, turning across you, or failing to give way. If most of your riding is urban with heavy junction traffic, front-facing is the more useful single camera. If you ride rural lanes with fast traffic behind you, go rear.
What to look for in a bike camera
- Battery life. A standard action camera manages 60 to 90 minutes. That will not cover a commute both ways, let alone a long ride. Look for several hours on a single charge.
- Resolution. 1080p is the practical minimum for reading a number plate. Higher resolutions fill your SD card faster without adding much at typical passing distances.
- Loop recording. The camera keeps running when the card fills, overwriting the oldest footage rather than stopping without telling you.
- Weatherproofing. IPX66 covers rain, sleet and snow. You will ride in all three.
- Mounting. A quarter-turn mount lets you take the camera off at the cafe stop in seconds. Consider where the lens sits — cables and bar tape creeping into frame will cost you clarity when it matters.
- Time and date stamp. Burned into the footage, this is one of the details police forces ask for.
Reporting a close pass
UK police forces accept cyclist camera footage through the National Dash Cam Safety Portal and force-level schemes such as Operation Snap. You submit the video online along with a written statement setting out what happened. Be specific and factual about the incident rather than describing how it felt — distance, speed, road conditions and what you had to do in response.
If something happens, stop recording as soon as it is safe and copy the file off the SD card before loop recording overwrites it. Note the registration, time and location while it is still fresh.
Bike Camera FAQs
Will a bike camera capture a number plate?
Yes, in normal daylight at typical close pass distances. Our cameras record at 1080p or 2K, which is sufficient resolution to read a registration. Reliability depends on more than the camera though — vehicle speed, available light, the angle of the pass and how clean your lens is all affect the result. Mount the camera so the lens has a clear view rather than partially obstructed by cables or bar tape, and wipe it before setting off in wet weather. Road spray on the lens softens footage more than rain itself does.
How long does the battery last?
Up to 7 hours at 1080p and 30fps, or around 6.5 hours at 2K. That drops to roughly 5 hours if WiFi is left on and connected to the app, so we recommend switching WiFi off while riding and only connecting when you want to review footage. The battery charges fully in about 90 minutes over USB-C. For most riders that covers a long weekend ride or a week of commuting between charges.
Can I mount a camera on my helmet?
Yes. Our cameras ship with a handlebar mount using a Garmin-style quarter-turn fitting, and a helmet mount is available separately, along with a rear saddle mount and a low-profile car suction mount. Because they use the standard Garmin disc pattern, they also work with most third-party Garmin-compatible mounts you may already have. At 118 grams the camera is light enough for helmet use without becoming uncomfortable on longer rides.
Are bike cameras legal in the UK?
Yes. There is no restriction on recording on public roads in the UK, and police forces actively encourage cyclists to submit footage of dangerous driving. You do not need to tell other road users they are being recorded. If you plan to publish footage publicly — on YouTube or social media — be aware that different considerations apply around identifying individuals, and it is worth blurring faces and plates in anything you post rather than in what you submit to police.
Do I need a camera if I already have lights?
They do different jobs. Lights make you visible and reduce the chance of an incident. A camera records what happened when someone drives badly anyway. Our rear camera and light combines both in one unit, which saves seat post space and means one thing to charge rather than two — useful if you are already running a computer, front light and rear light.
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